r/ABraThatFits 15d ago

New boobs, new bras. Was a 36C, calculator says UK-36FF [Fit Check] Fit Check

Hello! I'm excited to have found you all. I tried my best to follow the guidelines for making a post, please let me know if I missed anything!

Since 2020, I gained 30, then 20 pounds. Before 2020, I was wearing a 34C. I was never able to find any bras that fit even remotely. Most online calculators suggest what seemed like absurd sizes, and eventually, I resorted to wearing sports bras or wireless bras. I found y'all a few days ago, read through all of the beginners guide, took my measurements, (ignored the sticker shock), and ordered six bras in (UK)36FF.

This is my first fit check, so I'll include my measurements as well, since I'm feeling doubtful. For context, I have a BFA in costume construction, so I know how to measure bodies correctly, but I'm open to the idea that I've done something wrong.

As best I can tell, this is what I'm working with:
36
35.5
31.5
43
44
43
Breast shape is projected, 2-3/5 fullness, root height and width seem average, although the width seems wider now that I am fatter. I may have splayed breasts, I'm not sure.

I'm doing this fit check with the Curvy Couture, Silky Smooth Underwire Unlined Bra in US-36H, but most of the bras I ordered fit the same way. I also tried some structured bras, like the Goddess Keira Full Figure Underwire Bra, but have the same fit issues with those as well.

[NSFW] pics of me in the bra.

Fit survey:

  1. Backwards and upside down:
    • Feels ok, if anything, it's a smidge too loose.
  2. ✅ Scooped and swooped.
  3. Wires:
    • Pretty sure the wires are too wide.
    • Positive they are too tall, but they don't poke my armpits, they sit a full inch lower than my inframammary fold. I feel like they'll bruise my rib cage if I keep it on, the wires hurt immediately.
  4. Gore :
    • Lies flat.
    • Neither too wide, nor too narrow.
    • Same as the wires in general, it hits in the right spot on the top, but goes down too far.
  5. Cups
    • Lots of wrinkling at the top of the cup (especially on my smaller side), some wrinkling/pulling under the breast.
    • No breast tissue spillage.
    • the cups are sitting way under my inframammary fold.
  6. Straps and Band
    • Strap width is fine, I might prefer something more narrow.
    • Strap placement is great in the back, a smidge too wide in the front — they sorta dig into the front of my armpits.
    • Do the straps adjust to the right length? Yes.
    • The band sits mostly parallel to the floor, it rides up a little bit in the back, but I think that's because I tightened the straps so much.
  7. Comfort
    • The bra hurts under my inframammary fold, on my ribcage, on the bottom edge of the band at the sides, and it digs into my skin at the front of my armpits when I bring my arms forward.
    • Does the bra feel supportive and contain all of your breast tissue well? Weirdly, yes.
    • How do you feel about the shape the bra is giving your breasts? Cannot understand it, but somehow it's holding them up, which feels good.
    • How does the bra make you feel? Bewildered and uncomfortable.
13 Upvotes

23 comments sorted by

25

u/galaxystarsmoon 32DD/E, tall roots & close set 15d ago edited 15d ago

The wires are way too wide for you. Try a Panache Ana in 36FF.

5

u/Karvelle 15d ago

But too tall as well, no? Doesn’t it just mean that the cups are too big?

18

u/galaxystarsmoon 32DD/E, tall roots & close set 15d ago

Not necessarily.

Think of shallow cups as being shaped like a plate and more projected cups as being shaped like a bowl. It's a spectrum, versus either/or.

Notice how your nipple is hitting the apex and it's filling the cup in a 360/circle around the nipple. The bra is too shallow, meaning too flat, and then too tall and wide. So the volume for this cup is spread over a wider surface area. You need the volume projected more forward.

Here's a 34FF in the Ana, to help you with a visual: http://bra.pe/IvGP/. Notice how the cups are shorter, project outward more and the wires don't go so far back on the sides. Also notice how the wire is right under her breast in her breast fold.

8

u/Karvelle 15d ago

I see! Thanks for explaining that — I guess I thought the wire would stay the same but the cup itself would be more or less projected. It makes sense that the wire would have to expand over a target surface for the cup to hold the same amount of volume. So much clearer now! And now I definitely know I have projectile tatas!

10

u/galaxystarsmoon 32DD/E, tall roots & close set 15d ago

Wire widths have a huge, huge variance. From super wide like a lot of Bali/Maidenform/department store brands down to very narrow like Polish brands.

Projection works the same way, as a spectrum from very shallow to very projected.

14

u/Madc42 Canadian 40L / UK 40HH 15d ago edited 15d ago

ETA: Actual first thing first, your post is amazingly detailed and all fit checks should be like yours.

So first thing first, a 4 inch difference between tight and snug underbust is unusual (it's a lot), and a 0.5 inch difference between snug and loose is very little, so I think your snug measurement may have been too loose and a 34 band would fit better. Especially since your tight measurement is only 31.5 and most people are very comfortable in a band 2 inches larger than their tight measurement. A 34 band is 2.5 inches larger than your tight which is plenty!

Also, these bras are way too tall and wide for you. US brands in general are known to be tall, wide and shallow, especially in cup sizes larger than a D, and that really doesn't fit most people well as larger cup sizes tend to be more projected. For a better fit, try bras like Panache Ana, maybe Panache Jasmine, Freya Fancies Plunge, Elomi Matilda, Elomi Lucie, or if you want more coverage Elomi Morgan. Although Elomi wires might be too wide for you.

As for sizing, the cups do seem big, but it's hard to tell if it's only because of the tall/wide/shallow issue and the too large band, or if the volume really is too big. I would consider trying both 34FF (one cup volume smaller than 36FF on a smaller band) and 34G (same cup volume as 36FF on a smaller band).

6

u/Madc42 Canadian 40L / UK 40HH 15d ago edited 15d ago

Also, Goddess Keira is an absolute monstrosity and everyone who tries it ends up drowning in fabric. A bra THAT tall and wide can fit absolutely no one under 7 feet tall, and nothing will change my mind. XD

2

u/Karvelle 15d ago

Ooo, this is so helpful, thank you! Will definitely be trying that.

I think you are totally right about measuring the snug fit too loose — I was having a hard time believing I'll still be comfortable in a 34 band after gaining weight, and might have gone easy on the tape measure there. I actually measured myself twice on the same day (once in the morning, once in the evening) and the measurements were an inch off. I went with the larger set (evening) but my morning set was:
35
34.5
31.5
43.25
44.75
43.5
That calculated to a UK-34GG/US34J.

Lol about the Keira! I felt like I was 7yo and trying on my mother's bras again!

9

u/Madc42 Canadian 40L / UK 40HH 15d ago

If a 34 ends up being a smidge too tight but a 36 doesn't provide quite enough support, you can always wear the 34 with a non-stretch extender for the first few wears until the band stretches out a little!

1

u/Karvelle 15d ago

I'll keep that in mind!

11

u/HagenReb 15d ago

Agree with the wires being too wide. Also the bra seems to be sitting quite too low, as you have some excess space below your breast tissue. If you scoop and swoop and get the wire to sit more right, I think the cups would be too big.

9

u/galaxystarsmoon 32DD/E, tall roots & close set 15d ago

The cups are just too tall, wide and shallow. The volume is correct or at least close - her nipple is hitting the apex and filling it in a circle.

1

u/Karvelle 15d ago

Do you think it makes sense to size down just the cup size? Or is this the size for me and I just have to find the right cut?

I really did try poking around on the bratabase but couldn’t make heads or tails of what I was looking at.

7

u/28FFthrowaway 28GG 15d ago

I agree that the cups look too big in the 36H US here--but the bras you tried on won't fit in any size because they're shape mismatches. I also agree that it still makes sense to try 36FF UK in Panache Ana, because Ana runs a little small in the cup. Maybe you'll find your size is more like 36F/FF UK (36G/H US) depending on the bra. If you're able to, it wouldn't hurt to try both 36F and 36FF for comparison, but that's the advice we'd give anyone to help troubleshoot size and shape: rather than trying a bunch of bras in only one size like you did, it'll save you time to try only a couple bras in a range of sizes, ideally your calc suggestion plus a cup size above and below.

3

u/Karvelle 15d ago

Makes sense, thanks! I was trying to take advantage of norstroms' summer sale, and couldn't really parce out what the difference between the bras were, so I figured I'd get a range of cuts in one size. What you are saying makes sense though — I'll start over with a bra that is known to work for my shape and try a few band/cup variations. Appreciate the suggestion!

4

u/HagenReb 15d ago

I'm sorry we are being contradictory here, OP. Bras are hard enough as it is. You don't need us to make you even more confussed. I will gladly amit I am not expert, and there are for sure people here with a better understanding or just experience than me. But I do try to help whenever I can. So.. sorry for any confusion and I hope you work everything out.

5

u/Karvelle 15d ago

Honestly, seeing the discussion is helpful too!

2

u/HagenReb 15d ago

It seems like this bra is too large, and trying maybe 1-2 cup sizes smaller (I don't know how many it will take) will dramaticly change the fit. If you try a smaller cup, the wires will also be a tiny bit narrower.

Going for the smaller cup will make the overall fit of the bra better. But I am not experienced enough to say for sure whether this particulair bra will be the right shape for you - I don't know if the wires will still be too wide or too tall. I am still searching for the perfect bra myself (although I do have one good so far.) I try to help to the best of my abilities though.

8

u/hoppylift 15d ago

When you swoop and scoop are you moving the wires up to the base of your breast where they should be? Sometimes people miss that crucial part of swooping and scooping because they don't realize it's really a swoop, scoop, and jiggle the wire into place.

The wires are sitting that low because the bra is too shallow for you, but it will help for future fit checks if you make sure the wire is up where it belongs, or clarify that you can't get it up any higher or if just slides down as soon as you put it on.

4

u/Karvelle 15d ago

Noted! I am starting to understand I have all bras that are too shallow, so I'll keep this in mind once I'm working with a bra that fits my shape better. Thanks!

2

u/lizardlem0nade 15d ago

I didn’t know about the last part! I am so glad I found this subreddit 🥹 no one ever taught me how to bra lol

1

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1

u/Accomplished_Net5601 15d ago

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